How are pieces of fabric joined, and how do you choose and finish a seam so it is strong and neat?
Seams and seam finishes (plain/open seam, French seam, flat-felled seam, and edge finishes such as overlocking, zigzag and pinking) and how to select a seam and finish that suits the fabric and the item.
A focused answer to the SQA National 5 Fashion and Textile Technology content on seams and seam finishes, covering the plain, French and flat-felled seam and edge finishes such as overlocking, zigzag and pinking, and how to choose a seam to suit the fabric and item.
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What this dot point is asking
The SQA wants you to know how fabric pieces are joined with seams, how the raw edges are finished so they do not fray, and how to choose a seam to suit the fabric and item. The construction work in the practical depends on this, and the question paper asks you to describe a seam and justify a choice.
The plain (open) seam and edge finishes
Enclosed seams: French and flat-felled
Choosing a seam to suit the item
Try this
Q1. State the first step in sewing a plain seam. [1 mark]
- Cue. Place the two pieces with right sides together before stitching the seam allowance.
Q2. Name two ways to finish the raw edge of a plain seam. [2 marks]
- Cue. Any two of: overlocking, zigzag stitch, pinking.
Q3. Explain why a flat-felled seam is used on workwear. [2 marks]
- Cue. It encloses the edges and is topstitched, so it is strong and hard-wearing for heavy use.
Exam-style practice questions
Practice questions written in the style of SQA exam questions on this dot point, with worked answer explainers. The year tag is the paper they imitate, not the source.
SQA-style Describe4 marksDescribe how a plain (open) seam is sewn and explain why the raw edges must be finished.Show worked answer →
Award up to 2 for the method and up to 2 for the reason. A plain seam is sewn with the right sides of the two pieces together, stitching a straight line a set seam allowance from the edge; the seam is then pressed open so the allowances lie flat (up to 2). The raw edges must be finished because, without a finish, the cut edges of a woven fabric fray, the threads unravel and the seam weakens until it could come apart in wear or washing; a finish such as overlocking, zigzag or pinking stops the fraying (up to 2). Markers reward a clear method plus the link between fraying and seam failure.
SQA-style Explain4 marksExplain why a French seam is a suitable choice for a lightweight blouse, giving two reasons.Show worked answer →
Award up to 2 marks per reason, to a maximum of 4. A French seam encloses the raw edges inside the seam, so no rough edges or fraying show on the inside of a sheer or lightweight fabric where they would otherwise be seen through the cloth (2). The enclosed seam is also neat and strong yet stays narrow and flat, which suits a delicate blouse that needs a tidy, comfortable finish against the skin (2). A plain seam on sheer fabric would show frayed edges through the cloth, which is why the French seam is preferred. Markers reward two reasons linked to the lightweight, see-through nature of the fabric.
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